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This
is a question that often comes up, so I decided that
it was time someone did a simple pictoral guideline.
I've had to cut a lot of these recently, and I figured
others might need something like this.
In
general, I made most of my cuts into the cage using
a Reinforced Cutting Wheel with my dremel. For any round
cuts, I use a Drum Sander. I debur with sand paper.
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*
Front of the cage:
The first cut you need to do is at the front of the cage to allow
the Grenade Launcher Front Block to slot into it. (In all the pics
in this pictoral guideline, the first pic is the unaltered cage,
the second pic is the rough guidline as to where to cut, the third
pic is the material that would be removed, and the final pic is
the altered cage.)
< Click image
for larger view.
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Step
2: You will need to secure the receiver in a padded vice. Lubricate
the inside surface of the aluminum receiver block. The tolerances
are very tight here. Using a brass or blunted steel pipe and a soft
mallet, tap the block onto the Thompson barrel orifice until flush.
Take care not to damage the airsoft barrel. Use the adjustable wrench
to field adjust the block so that it is aligned perfectly with the
receiver.
< Click image
for larger view. |
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Left side of the cage:
On the left side of the cage you need to remove three small sections
to allow the pump grip's racking mechanism access to the inside
of the cage.
< Click image
for larger view.
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Bottom side of the cage:
To make the cuts for the loading port, you need to extend the length
of the hole that's already there like so:
< Click image
for larger view. |
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Step
5: Insert the steel barrel sleeve over the brass airsoft barrel
and into the aluminum receiver block. It should slide in between
3" to 3.25" depending on your preferences of barrel overhang.
Test fit everything to see what I mean.
< Click image
for larger view. |
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Right side of the cage:
IMHO, the hardest cuts to make are those of the ejection port. I
start by cutting the small section at the top, followed by the long
horizontal cut at the bottom. Two vertical cuts completes the rectangular
cut out. All that's left is the curved cuts:
< Click image
for larger view.
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Here's
a close up of what it should look like:
< Click image
for larger view. |
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Here's
a little extra info. Personally, with the way my Pulse Rifles are
constructed I don't bother with the following two cuts because I'm
using a resin M870 receiver, and I attach the triggers seperately,
so I can simply slot the receiver through the front of the SPAS12
cage (and not worry about the trigger getting in the way). However,
if someone plans to use either an airsoft or real steel M870 receiver,
they'll have to load the M870 through the back of the cage and therefore
needs to do the following:
* Back end, Major cut:
To be able to load the M870 receiver through the back of the cage,
you'll have to remove the following material:
Actually, I've probably
highlighted more than actually needs to be removed from there, but
you get the idea. The cut can probably be more squared off, like
on the altered cage on the right. I found this cut to be about the
same difficulty as that of the front section cut... which was very
easy. |
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* Back end,
Minor cut:
The last cut is a tiny one... but a necessary one. This one is needed
to make way for the trigger assembly:
Here it is from
a slightly better angle:
As I said before,
these two cuts I typically don't bother with, but they are cut in
all the SD Studios SPAS12 cages so it doesn't hurt to be aware of
them.
Hope that helps
answer one of the most commonly asked questions regarding the SPAS12
cage.
Alex
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