This stage will cover how I attached the connecting cables in the assembled arm. In the lower right portion of the image there is a gray resin piece. I will be replacing that piece with a scratch built equivalent.

After sizing up details on the screen used endo arm, I soon noticed that ten to fourteen feet of cable will be needed to finish off this arm. The endo arm kit for this tutorial was missing the cables so I set off to find the closest match to it.

It is exactly 1/8 inch O.D. and hollow spring cable.

From what I understand about it is that this is commonly used with puppets and animatronic (sp) items.

Thanks to the most helpful advise from fellow modelers, I found a speedometer cable repair kit at a local auto parts store for about $8.00.

In comparison it is pretty close. Foreground cable is the substitute speedometer cable. The background cable is the original part to the other endo arm kit.

I cut four pieces at 12 inches in length. These will be run through the palm plate and into the base joint of each knuckle.

Here, the red arrows indicate where the openings for the cables are to be installed. The bottom red arrow shows the area for the thumb cable. This piece is one of five additional cables cut to 9 inches in length.

To attach the base of the cables to the cuff, I used a stack of four heavy duty magnets. Something like this can be picked up at any good hardware store for under two bucks. The magnets will cling to the steel hardware created in STAGE VII of this tutorial.

The red arrow indicates placement for the braided hose covered next.

:: See image 11 for top connection...

From left to right :: 3/8" copper tubing, resin part from kit, 1/4" copper ice maker line, Calterm # 73520 Expandable Sleeving. These are some of the main pieces used to fabricate an adjustable braided line.

...and a comparison photo for the new, nicely curved part.

For the end piece, I used a 10/24 hex nut and a cut piece from a steel tent stake. This is epoxied in place and the copper cuffs are crimped to hold the braided sleeve in place.

In the side of one arm piston, I've secured one additional magnet.

There is more info about this type of magnet in STAGE VIII of this tutorial.

Given the amount of steel that is making up the end of my custom cabel, it makes for a very strong connection.

:: See image 7 for base placement...

One very important detail for this replica, the arm piston linkage. The screen used endo arm includes this piece, broken in the same radius as the upper arm chassis. This part was missing on two of the kits that I have been working on.

Thanks to the helpful custom machining of russrep, I now have the part needed to complete this arm and tutorial. :)

For more info on this part and any additional custom machining, I encourage anyone to contact Russ first. Email addy is, russt33@msn.com

Here, I've utilized an engraving bit to make the broken end appear pitted like the other broken arm piece.

This piece attaches with a 1/4" x 1" set screw and moves freely inside the well. The arm is now ready for the triple chrome plate finish.

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